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Henri Evenepoel, In the Public Garden (Au square) from the album L'Estampe moderne (Album VII), 1897

Fashion

Printmakers looking to depict contemporary urban life in Paris focused closely on their figures’ clothes.

In his famous essay ‘Le Peintre de la vie moderne’ in 1863, the poet and critic Charles Baudelaire cited fashion as the ultimate symbol of modernity.

Fashion was ephemeral and temporary in character, making it a mirror of the era.

Henry Somm, Parisian Woman (Parisienne), 1880

Henry Somm, Parisian Woman (Parisienne), 1880

The Parisienne as ultimate fashion icon

Baudelaire offered a lyrical description of a female passer-by on the boulevards of Paris, in which woman and clothes formed an inseparable harmony.

The printmaker Henry Somm specialised in this subject, as we can see in his etching La Parisienne. He did not seek to depict an individual woman, but rather a type that caught the international imagination.

Upmarket stores and couturiers made shrewd use of the myth of the Parisienne to advertise their fashionable clothes and other consumer goods.


Félix Vallotton, The Brawl (La rixe) or Scene in the Café (La scène au café), 1892

Félix Vallotton, The Brawl (La rixe) or Scene in the Café (La scène au café), 1892


Men in black

Where women’s fashions were varied and fanciful, men’s clothing was strikingly uniform and stable. Parisian men who did not have to engage in manual work wore black suits with overcoats and top hats.

Félix Vallotton skilfully exploited the graphic potential of this dark silhouette in his woodcuts. In his print The Brawl, tussling men are depicted as a black tangle with the occasional head or hand protruding from the mass.


Further reading
  • Emile Zola, Au Bonheur des dames, Paris 1883
  • Ruth Iskin, Modern Women and Parisian Consumer Culture in Impressionist Painting, Cambridge 2007
  • Gloria Groom, Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity, New Haven 2012